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Knitting Guides & Tutorials

Chunky Cable Knitting Masterclass: The Urban Military Cropped Sweater

Learn how to execute bold 8-stitch braided cables in bulky #5 yarn without pulling or puckering, master upright mock neck ribbing, and style a modern cropped silhouette.

By Wildflower & Wool Studio•Oct 25, 2026•8 min read
Chunky Cable Knitting Masterclass: The Urban Military Cropped Sweater - Knitting Guides & Tutorials Overlay Mosaic Crochet Guide & Tutorial Chart
⚡ Quick Summary & Key Takeaways
  • Technique & Style: Overlay mosaic crochet worked from right to left on right-side rows only, alternating Color A (BLOsc) and Color B (FLOdc drop stitches).
  • Zero Ends to Weave In: All side fringe cut tails are completely encased inside a seamless double envelope border worked in the round.
  • Included Guides: Full row-by-row written instructions in standard US terms paired with marked high-resolution printable stitch charts.
  • Yarn & Gauge: Uses an effortless 50/50 yardage split between Color A and Color B, easily customizable for DK #3, Worsted #4, or Bulky #5 weights.

Runway Architecture: The Urban Military Cropped Sweater balances the raw visual weight of chunky #5 bulky yarn with an intentional high-waisted cropped hemline and 3/4 sleeves. It is a masterclass in modern proportion.

Mastering the 8-Stitch Cable Cross (C8R) in Bulky Yarn

Crossing 8 bulky stitches can feel tight on standard needles if tension isn't managed correctly. Follow these professional cable tips:

  • Use a Grooved or U-Shaped Cable Needle: A grooved cable needle prevents thick yarn from slipping off while crossing stitches behind the work.
  • Relax the Preceding Row: On Row 8 (the WS row immediately before your cable twist), purl the 8 cable stitches with slightly relaxed tension. This extra slack makes crossing the stitches on Row 9 smooth and effortless.
  • The C8R Formula: Slip 4 stitches onto the cable needle and hold in back of work; knit the next 4 stitches from the main needle; then knit the 4 stitches directly from the cable needle.

The original Brazilian design featured Círculo Fio Urbano (80% Acrylic, 20% Polyamide, 110m per 100g). Excellent international equivalents include:

  1. Lion Brand Hue + Me: Bulky #5 (80% Acrylic, 20% Wool, 125g / 125m). Developed by Two of Wands, this yarn has an earthy, matte stonewashed finish that mimics Fio Urbano flawlessly.
  2. Paintbox Yarns Simply Chunky: 100% Premium Acrylic with generous loft, perfect for sensitive skin and quick gift knitting.
  3. Cascade 128 Superwash: 100% Merino Wool bulky weight. Unsurpassed elasticity, bounce, and cable definition.
  4. Rowan Big Wool: 100% Pure Wool for crafters seeking an ultra-luxurious, sculptural silhouette.

Constructing the Upright Mock Turtleneck

An upright mock collar frames the face without folding over. After seaming the right shoulder, pick up 64 stitches around the neckline using your US 10.5 needles. Work in 1x1 ribbing for 9 cm. When binding off, use an extra-stretchy tubular or sewn bind-off so the collar easily expands to fit over the head while snapping snugly back against the neck.

Featured Pattern In This StoryInstant Digital PDF
Urban Military Cropped Cable Knit Sweater Pattern
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5.0(12 reviews)
Urban Military Cropped Cable Knit Sweater Pattern

A high-fashion chunky cropped sweater featuring an imposing 8-stitch central braid cable, wide moss stitch panels, 3/4 sleeves, and an upright mock neck collar.

Level: IntermediateHook: US 10.5 (7.0 mm) + Cable needleSize: Cropped Fit: 52 cm width x 41 cm length (Bust 36-40")
$6.49$12.99
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Complete Chart PDF Instant Download

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