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The Official Maker Dictionary & Technique Reference

Crochet Stitch & Mosaic Glossary

Whether you are decoding your first overlay mosaic chart or refining your double envelope border tension, explore our definitive maker reference for stitch abbreviations, chart symbols, yarn calculations, and finishing techniques.

Showing 12 of 12 terms
Category:
BLOsc
Mosaic StitchesBeginner

BLOsc (Back Loop Only Single Crochet)

A standard single crochet worked exclusively under the rear horizontal loop at the top of the stitch, leaving the front loop unworked on the front surface of the fabric.

How It's Worked:

Insert your crochet hook under only the rear strand of the V at the top of the stitch. Yarn over, draw up a loop, yarn over, and pull through both loops on your hook.

Maker Pro Tip:

The unworked front loop left by BLOsc becomes the anchor point where dropped Front Loop Only double crochets (FLOdc) attach two rows later.

FLOdc
Mosaic StitchesBeginner

FLOdc (Front Loop Only Double Crochet)

A double crochet worked two rows directly beneath your current row into the exposed front loop of the same color, creating the raised motif overlay.

How It's Worked:

Yarn over, dip hook down 2 rows to pierce the exposed front loop, yarn over, pull up a loop to the working height of the current row, [yarn over, pull through 2 loops] twice.

Maker Pro Tip:

Always pull the loop up to the full working height of your current row to avoid tension puckering and slanting edges.

Envelope Border
Borders & FinishingIntermediate

Double Envelope Border (Pocket Border)

A two-walled crochet hem worked around the perimeter of an overlay mosaic blanket that encases all raw cut fringe tails inside an internal chamber, eliminating hand-weaving.

How It's Worked:

Crochet a back wall into back loops of side stitches, crochet a matching front wall into front loops, tuck and knot all raw tails between layers, and join both walls together with slip stitch or single crochet.

Maker Pro Tip:

Size down your crochet hook by 0.5 mm to 1.0 mm for the border walls to prevent flaring and wavy perimeter edges.

BS
Mosaic StitchesBeginner

Border Stitch (BS)

The structural anchor stitch placed at the absolute start and finish of every single row, worked through BOTH loops to provide tensile stability.

How It's Worked:

Instead of inserting into the back loop only, insert your hook under both top loops of the edge stitch. Complete a regular single crochet firmly.

Maker Pro Tip:

Working edge stitches through both loops prevents the side boundaries from stretching into loose, fragile loops when yarn is cut at row ends.

Back Bumps
General CrochetBeginner

Back Bumps (Bottom Ridge of Chain)

The horizontal strand located on the reverse side of a foundation chain, running directly behind the top and bottom V loops.

How It's Worked:

Turn your foundation chain over so the smooth V faces away from you. Insert hook under the single central ridge bump on the back to work your stitches.

Maker Pro Tip:

Crocheting into the back bumps leaves a neat, elastic V-braid along the bottom hem of your blanket that matches the appearance of your final top row.

INV DEC
General CrochetIntermediate

Invisible Decrease (INV DEC)

A specialized decrease stitch used primarily in amigurumi and tight shaping that joins two stitches together with zero visible gaps or bulky bumps.

How It's Worked:

Insert hook under front loop of first stitch, then immediately under front loop of next stitch (2 loops on hook). Yarn over, pull through both front loops, yarn over, pull through remaining 2 loops.

Maker Pro Tip:

Essential for plushies and 3D crochet toys to prevent polyester fiberfill stuffing from showing through fabric gaps.

Explore Amigurumi Patterns#invisible-decrease
Graphghan vs Mosaic
Charts & ColorIntermediate

Graphghan vs. Overlay Mosaic

The distinction between pictorial tapestry/C2C blankets (Graphghans) which use multiple bobbins and mid-row color changes, versus Overlay Mosaic which uses single-color rows.

How It's Worked:

In Graphghans, you turn your work and manage 5 to 20 tangled yarn bobbins. In Overlay Mosaic, you work one color per row on the front side only, cutting yarn at row ends with zero tangled bobbins.

Maker Pro Tip:

Overlay mosaic yields a sturdier, warmer, double-thick fabric with no carried floats visible on the front or back.

Overlay vs Graphghan Technique Guide#graphghan-vs-overlay-mosaic
MR
General CrochetBeginner

Magic Ring (MR / Magic Circle)

An adjustable starting loop technique used for working in the round that allows the maker to cinch the center hole completely shut.

How It's Worked:

Loop yarn around fingers, pull up a loop, chain 1, work designated single crochets inside the ring over both strands, then pull tail tightly to close the center hole.

Maker Pro Tip:

Leave a 4-inch tail and weave it securely in three opposing directions with a tapestry needle so the ring never pops open during laundering.

US vs UK
General CrochetBeginner

US vs. UK Crochet Terminology

The naming difference between American and British crochet terms. A US single crochet (sc) corresponds to a UK double crochet (dc), and a US double crochet (dc) corresponds to a UK treble (tr).

How It's Worked:

Always check pattern headers for terminology conventions. US patterns use single crochet, while UK patterns never use single crochet at all.

Maker Pro Tip:

All Wildflower & Wool patterns provide clear US written instructions alongside full universal symbol charts to avoid any confusion.

Color A / B
Charts & ColorBeginner

Color A vs. Color B (Main vs. Contrast)

The designated yarn color roles in two-color mosaic crochet. Color A typically forms the background and foundation, while Color B creates the foreground motif.

How It's Worked:

Odd rows (1, 3, 5...) are worked in Color A. Even rows (2, 4, 6...) are worked in Color B. High tonal value contrast (e.g. Navy vs. Cream, Emerald vs. Silver) is vital.

Maker Pro Tip:

Take a black-and-white photo of your two prospective yarn skeins on your phone. If they look grey and blend together in grayscale, choose higher contrast shades!

Chart Repeats
Charts & ColorIntermediate

Stitch Fiddle Chart Repeats

A digital chart design and reading system where a recurring motif sequence (e.g. 24 or 48 stitches wide) is enclosed in a repeat boundary to tile across wide blankets.

How It's Worked:

Work initial non-repeated setup stitches, execute the highlighted repeat sequence the designated number of times, and finish with final non-repeated edge stitches.

Maker Pro Tip:

Use digital tracking apps like GoodNotes or Stitch Fiddle to mark off rows with a highlighter as you finish them.

How to Read Overlay Mosaic Charts#stitch-fiddle-chart-repeats
Blocking
Borders & FinishingIntermediate

Blocking a Crochet Blanket (Steam vs. Wet)

The post-crochet finishing process of pinning stitches into true square alignment and applying steam (for synthetic acrylic) or water (for natural fibers) to relax fibers and lock dimensions.

How It's Worked:

Pin edges along grid mats with rust-proof T-pins. Hover a garment steamer or steam iron 1.5 to 2 inches above acrylic fabric. Allow to cool completely before unpinning.

Maker Pro Tip:

Never allow the hot metal plate of an iron to touch synthetic acrylic yarn directly, or it will melt and 'kill' the fibers permanently.

How to Steam Block Acrylic Blankets#blocking-a-crochet-blanket
Ready to Create?

Put Your New Stitch Knowledge into Practice

Every Wildflower & Wool digital pattern comes complete with high-resolution marked charts, row-by-row written instructions, and clear envelope border keys.